Petra Day 2

Monday, November 29, 2010

I start with dumb mistake, which I am too embarrassed to state, but I managed to, inadvertently, extend my vacation for another day. Was supposed to be heading back to Amman tonight, but nope, going to have an extra night in Petra. I suppose this may have been the work of my subconscious, but aside from a "Fired!" note from my boss [I hope he's joking!], I really did have a wonderful day.

This morning was my second full day of Petra, which was going to end at 4 followed by a 3 hour drive, and a 12 hour flight. Having climbed to both of the high places in Petra in one day I decided to take it easy today. I wanted to start with this alternate entry hike into Petra, but was intimidated by doing it alone, and when I noticed other hikers already going down that way, there was a cadre of tourist police coming down who warned me off, and I couldn't even point to the others because by then they had disappeared around the corner. Still too intimidated to do it alone, I proceeded down the "normal" way via the Siq, admiring the colors as I went.

So following the tombs around, I thought perhaps to follow the walk back, but got side tracked by these stairs... of course I had to climb them to find out what was at the top! The vistas out over the mountains were gorgeous, and the blue skies, a few puffy white clouds and the shade did not hurt at all. At the top, I found a couple of Bedouin with their offer of tea, and they pointed out that the overlook onto the treasury was not very far. This was on my list, but the walk from below had been a little daunting for me - I am not at all sure-footed, and hiking solo and not being comfortable would not have been smart. There was another woman who had come up behind me, so the two of us set off. Again, scenery is fantastic and it was kind of cool to be trekking along. Getting to the overlook required a little bit of scrambling over rock, and after observing a couple of other people, I slowly crept forward until I too could see the Treasury facade across from me, and the bustling open space in front of it below me. Wow! Mountain vistas all around me, the sound of the wind - and the chatter of the threesome across on the next rock - and the sun on my face. Wonderful! I think I finally found a place I could sit still for a bit...

Not! After a good half hour, it's time to move again. Unfortunately, the only means off the rock is back the way I came. Hmmm... doing this by self, and start out by following the boot prints in the sands and am scrambling back in what I think is the direction I came from. Then thankfully when I'm not sure which way to go, the Bedouin pops up again. Reminded me a little of Crocodile Dundee.. . Anyway, he points the way up, and then it's down the million steps again. I sooo much prefer inclines to steps, especially ones that are unevenly spaced and without handrails! By the time I'm back down, it's lunchtime, so with Petra's western [at least I think it's western] facade open in front of me, I sit and have my egg and hummus and bread and cheese and cookies, washed down by mango juice, then just sit and chill some more. A few people have passed me by, but not many, and a couple of them have actually come back down again, which prompts me to move again.

I head off towards the church ruins that have been found, and look at the mosaics that have been tented off to prevent further erosion. Annoyance at the "guard" who asks for baksheesh on the way out does not interfere with my enjoyment of the mosaics, however. Around three it's time to head back to the treasury, and most other visitors to Petra have the same idea. The menagerie of animals - camels, donkeys - that is headed back makes for a smelly and dusty walk back. I have a seat at the benches by the Treasury, and watch further drama unfold. The horse carriages back to the entrance to the Siq is a play unto itself. Meant for those who are unable to walk the distance to and from, there is a number given out of the cart, and a time. There is a lot of argument over who needs to take what carriage back and at what time, and the anxiety mounts of those who have tour buses waiting for them. Fascinating to watch, as the sunset brings out the pinkish hue in Treasury's facade, for which the "Rose Red" city gets its name. 

Getting my fill of the drama and the dust, and cognizant of time, I head back to the entrance. Upon arrival at my hotel, I discover my idiot mistake, and scramble to make some alternate plans. Couple of emails are dashed off, and alternate plans complete, I find that I can start making lemonade early. Tonight is the Petra by Night walk, so I go get a ticket and grab dinner at the Red Cave restaurant. 

Apparently, in spite of a dearth of tourists in the city, enough have heard of this program to come out for it. There is a stampede of us out the gate, so I hang back a little and then experience of the path lit by candle light, while the millions of brilliant stars overhead twinkle, is really magical. I got a few excellent photos while using the "natural" tripods, and arrive at the Treasury after the program has started. After some rabab and flute playing, there is a short description of the bedouin coffee and how the host gets the first cup and the guest the second, and it's time for a few more photos then back out. The way back is a lot more tiresome at 10 PM than it was at 8:30, and finally I get there, drag myself to bed and fall in... tomorrow is going to be a long day!

Petra was a great ending to a wonderful vacation. After cities and more cities, it was great to escape into nature for a while, and in the middle of an archeological park seems the perfect destination. I get that taste of history accompanied by lots of open space and physical exercise. Tomorrow, it's the road back to the "real world" and the start of a really long 24 hours back to reality.

Petra

Sunday, November 28, 2010

I am here! Ever since I figured out, while reading the autobiography of Queen Noor of Jordan, that the scene in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade where they find the holy grail was filmed at an actual location, and saw more photographs of Petra, I've been enthralled with coming here. And finally, here I was! 

Te

Of course one thing did escape my scrutiny - just earlier that month, the fees to Petra had been nearly doubled, and would be a steep $75!! Yikes! Oh well, here I was, and at 7 AM was there to get my ticket and give up my dough. Fantastic. 

At that time, there were a few hardy souls but with a little bit of dawdling, I had the experience of walking through the Siq alone. The colors of the canyon walls are stunning, even without the sunlight shining upon it. My camera is out and snapping and today I will take nearly 500 photographs... hopefully some of them will pass muster, but with scenery this stunning, I don't think I can go wrong. 

Treasury

The hint of civilization is evident in the carved channels of rock that channel water and keep it from flooding the way into the Nabatean city. There are various carvings in the sandstone walls of the various deities that the Nabateans worshipped. As various groups and individuals pass me, I overhear other snippets of information not in my Rough Guides, which has a really wonderful description. Finally, an hour or so after I entered the Siq, I see the "money shot", the first glimpse of the facade of the treasury beyond. Wow! This was carved out of the rock! The erosion of wind and time is evident, but the facade is still stunning. I sit myself down on one of the benches thoughtfully put up, and indulge my eyes in just looking at this. This is just the beginning of a vast archaeological site, but what a beginning. While the "rose red" color is not yet apparent, I discover that Petra has some really friendly and clean cats. One of them makes himself - at least I think it was him - comfortable in my lap and takes a little snooze. Cool, as I've been missing my boys a little with all the other cats I saw in Egypt.

Finally, it's time to get up and see more, and Petra does not disappoint. Next the plan is to head up to the High Place of Sacrifice and come back down the "back" way via Wadi Farasa. Well, the way up consists of ... steps! Lots and lots of them. At a few strategic resting stops, there are some friendly Bedouin hawking their wares or offering tea, and finally I make it up. Wow! I will repeat that a lot, but it's magnificent. Most of the way has been in the shade, and it's easy to see why the place was a "high place" with religious significance. The views are awesome of the other mountains around the area, and the valley below. I spend a bit of time exploring some other paths, and another friendly Bedouin, who probably thought I was trying to go down the face of the mountain without a path, points me in the direction of the Wadi Farasa route. I finally force myself back on track, and head off to the Wadi. Thankfully, I see a few other people on the route, and will run into more. 

This is a truly wonderful mix of hiking and nature, and history. There are a few Nabatean stops along the way, with a tombs and temples and fountains. And another four-legged Petran friend. This one is quite loud in his [I think it's him] need for attention, and lunch. I share some bread with him, and he follows me along for quite a while hoping for more, until I am left to continue on my own. Thankfully, there are a lot fewer steps down, and more of a trail. Finally, I emerge from the valley on the western [I think] edge of the ruins of the city center of Petra. I have a nice little lunch break under some shade overlooking the Qasr-Al-Bint - the only free-standing building in Petra, and then decide that there is enough daylight left to head to the Monastery. 

Monastery

Steps

Did I mention the Monastery is located up 800 stairs? I should have mentioned that. But once I start climbing, well, there is no turning back. With a number of rest stops, I make it up in 40 minutes, and keeping an eye on the time, I settle in to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine on the second largest facade in Petra. Awesome! There are a number of signs that point to "end of the world" views, so I go about exploring some of these. The 360-degree views are truly awe inspiring, looking back down at the monastery, but also out to Wadi Araba and the landscape I would navigate in a couple of days. 

Bedouin women

Wadi Araba

With the sun beginning to set, and the Bedouins wrapping up for the day, I realize it's time to head back. 800 steps down. Shins and Achilles tendon not happy, but happier than they were at Machu Pichhu last year! I guess the gym time paid off. Another realization hits as I pass in front of the Qasr-al-Bint ... it's another 40 minutes at least to the entrance of the Treasury, and another hour before the entry gate... Yikes, but slogging on. I am accompanied part way by Yasser and Micheal Jackson, his donkey who is wrapped up in yellow "caution" tape. Hmmm... in spite of tired legs, no donkey for me, thank you, especially one who is screaming "Caution". In spite of offer of free ride, I pass this up, but Yasser does entertain me with his life story for a while, and helps pass the time. Apparently, he lives in a cave, even though I will learn later that there is no cave living allowed anymore. He also will be heading off to Egypt in a month or so. Finally he abandons me to see if he can garner another "client" for MJ.

Yasser & MJ

Day 1 in Petra was pretty amazing. It was great to be out of the hustle and bustle of cities. The Bedouin hawking their wares are a lot more laid back than the merchants of Egypt, so it's nice to be able to walk away with a "no thank you". I really love the mixture of history and natural beauty, and it's refreshing to breathe smog-free air and not hear the constant beep of car horns. I'm looking forward to tomorrow. This seems the perfect end to a really wonderful vacation.

Jordan - On the way to Petra

Saturday, November 27, 2010

View from Karak castle

I was not ready to leave Egypt, but with the Egypt Air change fee being what it was, I decide to stick to my plan, and continue on to Jordan . It is another early morning wake-up call, this time at 5:30 AM for a 6:15 AM pickup. After 8 days of clear skies, today it is overcast, or foggy, or maybe even smoggy. 

I am flying Egypt Air out of Cairo to Amman, and there are two gate changes before we, along with a couple of hundred other people, are shuttled to this tiny gate area reminiscent of Toronto Pearson's flights to Hartford Connecticut. Anyhow, we can guess that the delays are due to the fog-like weather outside, but there are no announcements. About two hours later, our plane finally starts boarding, and we are bussed out to our waiting aircraft. I love foreign airlines - they still feed you. We get three drinks and breakfast on our one hour flight to Amman, as we pass over stunning scenery and the Red Sea coastline [at least I think it's the Red Sea]. 

Street on the way to Karak

Karak Castle

I land in Amman, but see noone with my name.... Hmmm, quick stop at information, and the guys there are looking at me like I'm crazy because I want to go to Petra by bus and in their helpful but overbearing way, inform me I should take a taxi. I call the hotel in Petra, and arrange a pricey taxi ride, with a stop at the ruins of the Crusader castle of Karak along the way. About 20 minutes after the call, the driver, Naeem, arrives with the best taxi I've gotten in thus far - automatic windows, no smoke smell, leather seats and air conditioning! Along the way I find out that he and his family live in Madaba and he worked in Dubai and had a glass factory, during the boom times, but that he sold out when the times turned. 

Passageways

I forgo lunch to wander around the castle ruins for about 90 minutes, then we are off again, via the King's highway this time, to Petra. A quick word on Karak: crusader castle mostly in ruins, but you can see why it was such an important stronghold as it's position affords it a great view, and some pretty significant military advantage. 

It takes another 2-1/2 hours with the twisty, turney roads and uphills and downhills, until we arrive in Petra. One stop along the way was the overlook down into the Dana Wildlife Reserve, looking out into Wadi Araba, I believe. Four days later, I would look again on the other side of this view as we drove north on the Dead Sea road. Incredible both times. 

On the way to Petra

We arrived in Petra just as the sun was setting, casting a wonderful glow on the hills and making for a great introduction for the next day. The Sun Set Hotel, though, I would compare to a Motel 6 - no frills, good location and cheap price. The Wifi was only working in the lounge area only, but it existed. I would put up with the smokey atmosphere and the constant TV noise, and this would be home for the next two nights. 

Dana Reserve

A quick wander down the "Tourist Street" and I find the Petra visitor's center and the revised price of the entry fee makes my eyes pop... 75USD??? Are they serious?! The pyramids are only 60LE, 100LE if you want to enter. Even the Valley of Kings was not this much.  But I'm already here, and unfortunately, the price of the entry ticket would not have postponed my visit. I just feel a little taken advantage off, but oh well.  

Wadi Musa - by the entry to Petra

Early night for a change, as tomorrow it's off to Petra bright and early, before the tour buses arrive.

Day 7 - Cairo [Day 3] - Pyramids!

Friday, November 26, 2010

Dahshur

Today I visited all the major pyramid fields in the Cairo area. Pyramid = tomb = statement "I lived". That is my synopsis after seeing and reading about these gigantic out-of-this-world structures. A pharoah's tomb began construction the day he took office, so to speak. 

Roadside sugar cane

This was another early day, and we start at 7:30 AM on Friday, which is good for us, as, due to the weekend, no traffic on the streets. I realize what it takes for no tooting car horns and a million cars on Cairo's streets. Weekend early morning. Sayed, our driver for the day, shows up with tigger in his back seat, and a car that's seen better days and reeks of tobacco smoke, but he's game to show us around for the day. So away we go.

Ramses statue - Memphis

On the drive down to Memphis, the ancient capital of the first pharoah who united upper and lower Egypt nearly 4,000 years ago, that he's been driving for Pension Roma guests for nearly 25 years. He proceeds to show us some sights along the way that we'll be passing, and shows us our first glimpse of the Giza pyramids, where we will end our day, off in the haze. Awesome! 

Alabaster sphinx - Memphis

Half an hour later, we arrive at Memphis. The city was built of clay and mud, and has long since returned to the Nile, but archeologists continue to dig and find. The site itself is nothing to sneeze at, but has a supine gigantic statue of Ramses [one of them] under a roof, and some other statuary in the open-air museum. A WC break later, we are on our way back out and on to Dahshur to visit the Red and Bent pyramids.

Bent pyramid

The Bent pyramid is one of the oldest, and many believe this helped lay the groundwork for the great pyramids at Giza. "Bent" because the angle changes about 2/3 of the way up the pyramid. Our guidebook tells us that this was because of a nearby collapse of another pyramid being raised at the same angle, with the Architect then questioning his design and making changes. Huh.... a few thousand years later and some things remain the same.... 

So we picked up our very own police escort at the site, and gave him a ride to his camp on our way to the Bent pyramid. This one is not open to tourists to go down in, but you can walk around it. As we did, we were joined by an Egyptian guard who asks the standard question: "where you from". I wander a little further afield for other shots of the pyramids, leaving Andrea to deal with our escort for a while. A few minutes later, I see that his camel is going down, and she's going to take him up for a ride... you go girl! I don't remember either our Camel Cop's name nor our ride, but I also take my first ride on the ship of the desert. It's different, but it's fun. CC also takes us around to where you can try to "lift" the pyramid. Fun, and I get into it too.

Red pyramid

Red pyramid

After our little trip, Sayed drops us off at one corner and we start walking around. After our circumnavigation of the pyramid, we are off to go inside. The steps up are a little steep, and my lack of shape is showing as I'm a little out of breath as we start to descend to the mouth of the pyramid. The stale and musty air, with the small quarters, has a wave of claustrophobia overcoming me, and I call down to Andrea to go ahead, and that I would join her if I could. I take a few minutes to get my breath, and to get aquainted with the size of the passage as well as the stale and ammonia-like smell, while sitting only a few steps inside. Finally the claustrophobia edges away, and away I go, something like 60 meters downhill bent over. Once again, I'm thankful that I'm vertically challenged. I saw a 6-foot plus man bent over nearly double climbing back up and it did not look like fun. 

The ceiling of the tomb

The steps - Red pyramid

By the time I get down to the ground, I'm coated in sweat both with the heat, and feeling a little nauseous to boot with the ammonia smell. There is no decoration down in the burial chamber of the queen, and yay, stairs up to the king's chamber. The way the tomb is constructed is really interesting, with the mass of the pyramid above us - okay, not helping claustrophobia feeling! - and the way it is supported on the chamber walls. Really interesting from a construction and physics perspective. Again, no decoration, and these tombs are nothing like what we saw in Valley of the Kings. While these pyramids were visual to everyone else, the tombs in Valley of the Kings were full of decorative arts that would be visible only to the soul of the pharoah, as he made his daily journey through the night. I found the differences fascinating, as at the time the Valley of Kings' tombs were being built, the pyramids were already ancient! 

Step pyramid

So, seeing inside of pyramid... check! Next, we are off to the pyramid fields of Saqqara. A quick stop at the really nice Imhotep museum, and we are driven to Teti's tomb, then to the step pyramid at Saqarra. This, too, has the facing that has deteriorated, or been re-used at other places. A quick wander and then we are interested in lunch and Giza. 

Lunch is at Oasis, formerly known as Andrea, which is why we chose it. Food is buffet-style geared for the tour buses, but the view of the pyramids through the haze and fields is awesome. Eat, WC and off we go! 

The back way into the Giza pyramids

Sayed takes the back way in, and we arrive at the "back" entrance, where it is not possible to get a ticket to go inside the pyramid, which is fine by me. We start right at the Sphinx, and take a quick wander through the site, which guards announce is "closing" shortly after we get there. What?! Neither Andrea nor I checked to see what time, but that's ok. It's Omar and Moses to the rescue! Omar is a camel herder and Moses is a camel, and they take us for a really nice 45-minute or so camel ride. We get some awesome photographs of us on the camel as well as the pyramids. I was a little hesitant, but I'm glad that Andrea persevered, and I have this wonderful memory. 

Giza

We are let off by the Pizza Hut, where we go up for a non-alcoholic drink and to watch the sun set. Awesome! Then, with the museum not on the agenda any longer, we are back to the hotel.

Andrea & I and Moses

But we are not done yet. For my last night in the city, we try our hand at street navigation again and go "off book" to a restaurant that my friend Gina recommended on Zamalek, and since it looks like a straight shot, we decide to walk it. We seem to doing ok, and then the path takes us up a bridge and we realize that there are three lanes merging. An observation of how the locals do it tells us that you pretty much wait until there are no cars, then cross over to the rather wide pedestrian walkway... hmmm... ok, we try it and are not killed, so away we go. A stop to observe the decked out and rocking felucca boats on the Nile below, and then it's off the other end. And, yay, I feel rather proud when we descend and are right there... large wooden doors, no sign. The interior is really interesting, and somewhat reminiscent of Fishawis, with the lamp shades and the hookah. Food is so-so for me. We order a "very old recipe" that tastes like chicken pot pie, and traditional Moloquiyyah, the gummy spinach soup that I did not enjoy. But all in all, great meal, and Andrea negotiates for us a cheap cab ride back.

Sphinx

The End of my first visit to Cairo. I say first because, after a rough start for me, I really enjoyed my time here. There is a lot to see and it's a bustling city, in the vein of NY or Paris or London, that invites further discovery. Overwhelming at first, Cairo really invites you to get to know it better, and if you persevere, it rewards you with giving up some of it's secrets, and tantalizes you with the more it has to offer. I think I can say the same for Egypt, and was pleasantly surprised at what I found here. I can't wait to be back for more... But, my vacation is not over yet! Three more days in Jordan await!