Petra

Sunday, November 28, 2010

I am here! Ever since I figured out, while reading the autobiography of Queen Noor of Jordan, that the scene in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade where they find the holy grail was filmed at an actual location, and saw more photographs of Petra, I've been enthralled with coming here. And finally, here I was! 

Te

Of course one thing did escape my scrutiny - just earlier that month, the fees to Petra had been nearly doubled, and would be a steep $75!! Yikes! Oh well, here I was, and at 7 AM was there to get my ticket and give up my dough. Fantastic. 

At that time, there were a few hardy souls but with a little bit of dawdling, I had the experience of walking through the Siq alone. The colors of the canyon walls are stunning, even without the sunlight shining upon it. My camera is out and snapping and today I will take nearly 500 photographs... hopefully some of them will pass muster, but with scenery this stunning, I don't think I can go wrong. 

Treasury

The hint of civilization is evident in the carved channels of rock that channel water and keep it from flooding the way into the Nabatean city. There are various carvings in the sandstone walls of the various deities that the Nabateans worshipped. As various groups and individuals pass me, I overhear other snippets of information not in my Rough Guides, which has a really wonderful description. Finally, an hour or so after I entered the Siq, I see the "money shot", the first glimpse of the facade of the treasury beyond. Wow! This was carved out of the rock! The erosion of wind and time is evident, but the facade is still stunning. I sit myself down on one of the benches thoughtfully put up, and indulge my eyes in just looking at this. This is just the beginning of a vast archaeological site, but what a beginning. While the "rose red" color is not yet apparent, I discover that Petra has some really friendly and clean cats. One of them makes himself - at least I think it was him - comfortable in my lap and takes a little snooze. Cool, as I've been missing my boys a little with all the other cats I saw in Egypt.

Finally, it's time to get up and see more, and Petra does not disappoint. Next the plan is to head up to the High Place of Sacrifice and come back down the "back" way via Wadi Farasa. Well, the way up consists of ... steps! Lots and lots of them. At a few strategic resting stops, there are some friendly Bedouin hawking their wares or offering tea, and finally I make it up. Wow! I will repeat that a lot, but it's magnificent. Most of the way has been in the shade, and it's easy to see why the place was a "high place" with religious significance. The views are awesome of the other mountains around the area, and the valley below. I spend a bit of time exploring some other paths, and another friendly Bedouin, who probably thought I was trying to go down the face of the mountain without a path, points me in the direction of the Wadi Farasa route. I finally force myself back on track, and head off to the Wadi. Thankfully, I see a few other people on the route, and will run into more. 

This is a truly wonderful mix of hiking and nature, and history. There are a few Nabatean stops along the way, with a tombs and temples and fountains. And another four-legged Petran friend. This one is quite loud in his [I think it's him] need for attention, and lunch. I share some bread with him, and he follows me along for quite a while hoping for more, until I am left to continue on my own. Thankfully, there are a lot fewer steps down, and more of a trail. Finally, I emerge from the valley on the western [I think] edge of the ruins of the city center of Petra. I have a nice little lunch break under some shade overlooking the Qasr-Al-Bint - the only free-standing building in Petra, and then decide that there is enough daylight left to head to the Monastery. 

Monastery

Steps

Did I mention the Monastery is located up 800 stairs? I should have mentioned that. But once I start climbing, well, there is no turning back. With a number of rest stops, I make it up in 40 minutes, and keeping an eye on the time, I settle in to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine on the second largest facade in Petra. Awesome! There are a number of signs that point to "end of the world" views, so I go about exploring some of these. The 360-degree views are truly awe inspiring, looking back down at the monastery, but also out to Wadi Araba and the landscape I would navigate in a couple of days. 

Bedouin women

Wadi Araba

With the sun beginning to set, and the Bedouins wrapping up for the day, I realize it's time to head back. 800 steps down. Shins and Achilles tendon not happy, but happier than they were at Machu Pichhu last year! I guess the gym time paid off. Another realization hits as I pass in front of the Qasr-al-Bint ... it's another 40 minutes at least to the entrance of the Treasury, and another hour before the entry gate... Yikes, but slogging on. I am accompanied part way by Yasser and Micheal Jackson, his donkey who is wrapped up in yellow "caution" tape. Hmmm... in spite of tired legs, no donkey for me, thank you, especially one who is screaming "Caution". In spite of offer of free ride, I pass this up, but Yasser does entertain me with his life story for a while, and helps pass the time. Apparently, he lives in a cave, even though I will learn later that there is no cave living allowed anymore. He also will be heading off to Egypt in a month or so. Finally he abandons me to see if he can garner another "client" for MJ.

Yasser & MJ

Day 1 in Petra was pretty amazing. It was great to be out of the hustle and bustle of cities. The Bedouin hawking their wares are a lot more laid back than the merchants of Egypt, so it's nice to be able to walk away with a "no thank you". I really love the mixture of history and natural beauty, and it's refreshing to breathe smog-free air and not hear the constant beep of car horns. I'm looking forward to tomorrow. This seems the perfect end to a really wonderful vacation.