Petra Day 2

Monday, November 29, 2010

I start with dumb mistake, which I am too embarrassed to state, but I managed to, inadvertently, extend my vacation for another day. Was supposed to be heading back to Amman tonight, but nope, going to have an extra night in Petra. I suppose this may have been the work of my subconscious, but aside from a "Fired!" note from my boss [I hope he's joking!], I really did have a wonderful day.

This morning was my second full day of Petra, which was going to end at 4 followed by a 3 hour drive, and a 12 hour flight. Having climbed to both of the high places in Petra in one day I decided to take it easy today. I wanted to start with this alternate entry hike into Petra, but was intimidated by doing it alone, and when I noticed other hikers already going down that way, there was a cadre of tourist police coming down who warned me off, and I couldn't even point to the others because by then they had disappeared around the corner. Still too intimidated to do it alone, I proceeded down the "normal" way via the Siq, admiring the colors as I went.

So following the tombs around, I thought perhaps to follow the walk back, but got side tracked by these stairs... of course I had to climb them to find out what was at the top! The vistas out over the mountains were gorgeous, and the blue skies, a few puffy white clouds and the shade did not hurt at all. At the top, I found a couple of Bedouin with their offer of tea, and they pointed out that the overlook onto the treasury was not very far. This was on my list, but the walk from below had been a little daunting for me - I am not at all sure-footed, and hiking solo and not being comfortable would not have been smart. There was another woman who had come up behind me, so the two of us set off. Again, scenery is fantastic and it was kind of cool to be trekking along. Getting to the overlook required a little bit of scrambling over rock, and after observing a couple of other people, I slowly crept forward until I too could see the Treasury facade across from me, and the bustling open space in front of it below me. Wow! Mountain vistas all around me, the sound of the wind - and the chatter of the threesome across on the next rock - and the sun on my face. Wonderful! I think I finally found a place I could sit still for a bit...

Not! After a good half hour, it's time to move again. Unfortunately, the only means off the rock is back the way I came. Hmmm... doing this by self, and start out by following the boot prints in the sands and am scrambling back in what I think is the direction I came from. Then thankfully when I'm not sure which way to go, the Bedouin pops up again. Reminded me a little of Crocodile Dundee.. . Anyway, he points the way up, and then it's down the million steps again. I sooo much prefer inclines to steps, especially ones that are unevenly spaced and without handrails! By the time I'm back down, it's lunchtime, so with Petra's western [at least I think it's western] facade open in front of me, I sit and have my egg and hummus and bread and cheese and cookies, washed down by mango juice, then just sit and chill some more. A few people have passed me by, but not many, and a couple of them have actually come back down again, which prompts me to move again.

I head off towards the church ruins that have been found, and look at the mosaics that have been tented off to prevent further erosion. Annoyance at the "guard" who asks for baksheesh on the way out does not interfere with my enjoyment of the mosaics, however. Around three it's time to head back to the treasury, and most other visitors to Petra have the same idea. The menagerie of animals - camels, donkeys - that is headed back makes for a smelly and dusty walk back. I have a seat at the benches by the Treasury, and watch further drama unfold. The horse carriages back to the entrance to the Siq is a play unto itself. Meant for those who are unable to walk the distance to and from, there is a number given out of the cart, and a time. There is a lot of argument over who needs to take what carriage back and at what time, and the anxiety mounts of those who have tour buses waiting for them. Fascinating to watch, as the sunset brings out the pinkish hue in Treasury's facade, for which the "Rose Red" city gets its name. 

Getting my fill of the drama and the dust, and cognizant of time, I head back to the entrance. Upon arrival at my hotel, I discover my idiot mistake, and scramble to make some alternate plans. Couple of emails are dashed off, and alternate plans complete, I find that I can start making lemonade early. Tonight is the Petra by Night walk, so I go get a ticket and grab dinner at the Red Cave restaurant. 

Apparently, in spite of a dearth of tourists in the city, enough have heard of this program to come out for it. There is a stampede of us out the gate, so I hang back a little and then experience of the path lit by candle light, while the millions of brilliant stars overhead twinkle, is really magical. I got a few excellent photos while using the "natural" tripods, and arrive at the Treasury after the program has started. After some rabab and flute playing, there is a short description of the bedouin coffee and how the host gets the first cup and the guest the second, and it's time for a few more photos then back out. The way back is a lot more tiresome at 10 PM than it was at 8:30, and finally I get there, drag myself to bed and fall in... tomorrow is going to be a long day!

Petra was a great ending to a wonderful vacation. After cities and more cities, it was great to escape into nature for a while, and in the middle of an archeological park seems the perfect destination. I get that taste of history accompanied by lots of open space and physical exercise. Tomorrow, it's the road back to the "real world" and the start of a really long 24 hours back to reality.